If you know Super Tuscan, if you have heard of Bolgheri, you must not to miss Suverto.....a hidden betauty in between the Toscana rolling hills and its coastlines. This is again a small but charming medieval village like many others in Toscana. However, you never know until you see it yourself then you tell me! Thanks to Giovanni in Enoteca Italia and Alessandro a passinate oenologist of Bulichella, Here I will lead you to my day in Bulichella ~
托斯卡尼是義大利紅遍全球的葡萄酒產地, 以超級托斯卡尼酒名號打破傳統, 創造一瓶動輒要價不菲的地位, 也是源自當地靠近海岸線的Bolgheri地區. 最初在安排行程時, 還猶豫著到底要去Bolgheri或Maremma(托斯卡尼西南邊同樣鄰海的地區), 結果最後我到了Maremma緊鄰Bolgheri南邊的地區, 這一切都得歸功於Enoteca Italia的Giovanni...
托斯卡尼是義大利紅遍全球的葡萄酒產地, 以超級托斯卡尼酒名號打破傳統, 創造一瓶動輒要價不菲的地位, 也是源自當地靠近海岸線的Bolgheri地區. 最初在安排行程時, 還猶豫著到底要去Bolgheri或Maremma(托斯卡尼西南邊同樣鄰海的地區), 結果最後我到了Maremma緊鄰Bolgheri南邊的地區, 這一切都得歸功於Enoteca Italia的Giovanni...
Giovanni " I recommend you to go to a winery in ..... The owner is a Japanese...It should be very interesting..." 他說 “ 我推薦你去一間由日本人經營的酒莊...很有意思...“ 然後一邊在我的本子上寫下酒莊的聯絡方式, 一邊告訴我Alessandro英文說的不錯, 所以..... 而那當下, 我看他逗趣的表情, 說著最後一句頗耐人尋味的話時, 其實有點@#%^^ 但他的那個伏筆, 卻也成為我2012義大利酒鄉行意料之外的驚喜與收穫之一..
剛開始幾天在托斯卡尼的開車經驗, 讓我體會到, 在陌生的地方開車, 又遇到天黑後缺乏路燈照明, 肯定得花上不知幾倍的時間, 才會抵達要去的地方.. 加上我對於目的地Suvereto很陌生, 心裡盤算著...萬一自己又迷路, 可能會像鬼打牆, 無論怎樣就是在托斯卡尼鄉間繞來繞去...搞不好繞到沒油, 沒加油站, 被迫停在不知何處的半路上, 那樣就真的一點也不妙~ 叫天天不應叫地地不靈, 會很想哭吧... 為防範未然, 出發那天一早就跟Montalcino民宿主人問好路線, 當我聽到從Montalcino開車到Suvereto至少得花兩個小時以上的時間, 早在心裡打定, 傍晚前得踏上這段旅程... 雖然出發前在手機地圖上輸入Suvereto, ...仍不免迷途了幾次..地圖還帶我到了Suvereto古城, 疲憊且肚子超級餓的我, 最後終於找到Bulichella～
不過旅行最有趣的地方, 就是一切都不照計劃走...
我的驚喜在那下一秒即刻上演... 因為我發現酒莊辦公室關了...Alessandro電話聯絡不上... 我走向一間尚有燈光的房子敲門, 但能回應我的是我一點也聽不懂的義大利文... 經歷一番天人交戰, 我還是順利入住Bulichella酒莊民宿, 接著傳一封簡訊, 讓Alessandro知道我抵達酒莊了...
不過旅行最有趣的地方, 就是一切都不照計劃走...
我的驚喜在那下一秒即刻上演... 因為我發現酒莊辦公室關了...Alessandro電話聯絡不上... 我走向一間尚有燈光的房子敲門, 但能回應我的是我一點也聽不懂的義大利文... 經歷一番天人交戰, 我還是順利入住Bulichella酒莊民宿, 接著傳一封簡訊, 讓Alessandro知道我抵達酒莊了...
隔天早上在吃早餐時仍沒遇見Alessandro, 我自作聰明打算先退房, 回房間把行李整理好拿去車子放, 再走到辦公室去打招呼..... 沒想到, 才剛把我那笨重的行李搬到車子旁, 就見到一個急急忙忙跑到我身邊問了我是不是Vicky的人...他就是Alessandro！ 那當下, 我頗是尷尬, 因為他還以為我沒見到他就要走人了... 哈哈
我的Bulichella之旅, 就如此微妙地展開...
這落落長的開頭, 或許也曾發生在Bulichella老板 Miyakawa身上！如果沒有他的迷路, 也就沒有Bulichella, 更不會有接下來我真正要開始說的 故事
Italian & Japanese, two families Bonaguidi and Hideyuki
1989年, 近30年前, Bonaguidi一家子 (Alessandro的祖父及父親) 在Suvereto古城外的Bulichella園地從事農耕並釀酒...某天家門口來了位亞洲臉孔的過路客, 敲了門表示自己迷路, 想詢問附近是否有可吃飯及住宿的地方?Bonaguidi先生回了這位迷路的旅人, 附近沒有... 不過你要的話, 我這裡可以提供給你..... 就這樣...一場意外的相遇, 來自日本的Miyakawa與Bonaguidi一家人, 從此成了至交, 並在1999年促成如今的Bulichella, 一間融合濃厚人情 l 土地情的溫馨酒莊 ~
我很幸運的, 能夠參與到Bulichella酒莊生活中的點點滴滴....
從辦公室到酒廠前那一小段路, 我們一路走過Bulichella酒莊民宿, 先是和Alessandro的兩隻愛犬見面 (一隻公的黃金獵犬, 一隻母的拉布拉多). 他似乎比較偏愛拉布拉多, 起先只放了它出來, 後來終究抵不過黃金獵犬又叫又衝的, 還是把它也一起放出來玩... 走了幾步, 我們接著遇見手裡拿著兩瓶要送驗樣品的Stefano Bonaguidi (Alessandro的父親)...
Its needless to prove.. the beautiful lands tell you little by little..
and certainly you can taste and find all elements in Bulichella wines
Bulichella applies many natural agricutlure methods in vinegrowing. They believe that there is no need to claim organic or biodynamics simply because they implement those things everyday in their vineyards. On the way up to Bulichella hilly side vineyards, when we looked down, Alessandro mentioned that behind the opposite rolling hills is the direction to Bolgheri... and around the valley settled some other Suvereto wineries. At that moment, I was spontaneously jealous of those vines, having such a healthy environment to live... 這是場不斷充滿驚喜的小旅程!
葡萄園裡種植Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah....還有一些如Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo的實驗品種. 從谷地到丘陵地的葡萄園面貌, 讓我訝異又震撼! 非常的哇 :))))) 好健康純淨..... 接著就從Ale (後續Alessandro的簡稱) 口中聽到, Bulichella 一直都是採用最貼近自然的有機耕種方式!
你怎麼知道葡萄成熟了嗎?
跟著Ale逛葡萄園很有趣, 因為他是個不吝分享的人! 他邊介紹一串串掛在樹上的葡萄品種, 一邊摘起來試吃, 還跟我說, 他阿公以前告訴他, 要看葡萄熟了沒, 只要扒開葡萄顆粒, 中間的仔沒有綠綠的, 就可以採收了...
車越往山丘上開, 就會看到一整片井然有序的葡萄樹, 還有覆蓋紅色沙石的土壤. 在半山腰上往下看, 視野寬闊. Ale指著前方綿延不絕的山丘, 告訴我跨過那些山就是Bolgheri, 而環繞在平坦山谷的園地是屬於一些相較他們還要大間的Suvereto產區酒廠.
從辦公室到酒廠前那一小段路, 我們一路走過Bulichella酒莊民宿, 先是和Alessandro的兩隻愛犬見面 (一隻公的黃金獵犬, 一隻母的拉布拉多). 他似乎比較偏愛拉布拉多, 起先只放了它出來, 後來終究抵不過黃金獵犬又叫又衝的, 還是把它也一起放出來玩... 走了幾步, 我們接著遇見手裡拿著兩瓶要送驗樣品的Stefano Bonaguidi (Alessandro的父親)...
Its needless to prove.. the beautiful lands tell you little by little..
and certainly you can taste and find all elements in Bulichella wines
Bulichella applies many natural agricutlure methods in vinegrowing. They believe that there is no need to claim organic or biodynamics simply because they implement those things everyday in their vineyards. On the way up to Bulichella hilly side vineyards, when we looked down, Alessandro mentioned that behind the opposite rolling hills is the direction to Bolgheri... and around the valley settled some other Suvereto wineries. At that moment, I was spontaneously jealous of those vines, having such a healthy environment to live...
葡萄園裡種植Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah....還有一些如Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo的實驗品種. 從谷地到丘陵地的葡萄園面貌, 讓我訝異又震撼! 非常的哇 :))))) 好健康純淨..... 接著就從Ale (後續Alessandro的簡稱) 口中聽到, Bulichella 一直都是採用最貼近自然的有機耕種方式!
你怎麼知道葡萄成熟了嗎?
跟著Ale逛葡萄園很有趣, 因為他是個不吝分享的人! 他邊介紹一串串掛在樹上的葡萄品種, 一邊摘起來試吃, 還跟我說, 他阿公以前告訴他, 要看葡萄熟了沒, 只要扒開葡萄顆粒, 中間的仔沒有綠綠的, 就可以採收了...
車越往山丘上開, 就會看到一整片井然有序的葡萄樹, 還有覆蓋紅色沙石的土壤. 在半山腰上往下看, 視野寬闊. Ale指著前方綿延不絕的山丘, 告訴我跨過那些山就是Bolgheri, 而環繞在平坦山谷的園地是屬於一些相較他們還要大間的Suvereto產區酒廠.
the magic, the treasures of Bulichella
Bulichella spent 3 years digging organizing the new vineyard on top of the hills, preparing this perfect home for new vines.. At the end, it turns to a land for their top quality wines.. varieties being recognized in Suvereto -- Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah both Bulichella has been awarded for...
This is so called " the beloved land " of Bulichella by Ale. When we reached the top of Bulichella vineyards, I was stunned by the vines moreover the red rocky soils. Each red carpet like vineyard rows dragged my attention and my mind came up with Australia Coonawara. However, this specific Bulichella vineyard has something more.. it reminded me of German slate soils too... Ale found two rock examples telling me that they dedicate a lot to this land and they are the only winery who has got this unique hill in Suvereto. Mamamia ~
這兩塊盤踞山頭的葡萄園盡頭, 就是一整面紅色石頭斷面組成的山坡牆. 從高往低俯瞰, 我一整個被那紅配綠的色澤給吸引住, 一行行葡萄樹間的地面, 完全被形狀大小不一的紅色石頭覆蓋, 撲天蓋地般的讓我瞪傻眼了! 美～ 難怪當我在半山腰第一眼看見紅色沙石土壤, 開始往地上努力拍時, Ale會說, 等一下帶你去看另外一個, 更棒的! 果真, 我下車後就像發現新大陸般狂喜! 那抹紅讓我馬上想起澳洲以紅色土壤著稱的Coonawara, 當Ale指著葡萄園盡頭的那面石頭墻, 我又聯想到德國萊茵河流域著名的板岩...
轉眼間, Ale隨手撿起兩大顆石頭, 回憶起他們花了約三年的時間, 徒手打造出這一片新葡萄園, 他形容說 "這是我的愛... 只有Bulichella擁有這片山丘地, 其他的酒廠大多在平坦的山谷間..." 看著他自信滿足且閃閃發光的表情, 我完全能理解那份對土地的熱愛! 我也才意識到, 原來前一晚在酒莊吃飯點來喝的那一杯, 正是來自這樣的園地... 漂亮到猶如葡萄園被灑上亮麗水彩色澤!
This is so called " the beloved land " of Bulichella by Ale. When we reached the top of Bulichella vineyards, I was stunned by the vines moreover the red rocky soils. Each red carpet like vineyard rows dragged my attention and my mind came up with Australia Coonawara. However, this specific Bulichella vineyard has something more.. it reminded me of German slate soils too... Ale found two rock examples telling me that they dedicate a lot to this land and they are the only winery who has got this unique hill in Suvereto. Mamamia ~
這兩塊盤踞山頭的葡萄園盡頭, 就是一整面紅色石頭斷面組成的山坡牆. 從高往低俯瞰, 我一整個被那紅配綠的色澤給吸引住, 一行行葡萄樹間的地面, 完全被形狀大小不一的紅色石頭覆蓋, 撲天蓋地般的讓我瞪傻眼了! 美～ 難怪當我在半山腰第一眼看見紅色沙石土壤, 開始往地上努力拍時, Ale會說, 等一下帶你去看另外一個, 更棒的! 果真, 我下車後就像發現新大陸般狂喜! 那抹紅讓我馬上想起澳洲以紅色土壤著稱的Coonawara, 當Ale指著葡萄園盡頭的那面石頭墻, 我又聯想到德國萊茵河流域著名的板岩...
轉眼間, Ale隨手撿起兩大顆石頭, 回憶起他們花了約三年的時間, 徒手打造出這一片新葡萄園, 他形容說 "這是我的愛... 只有Bulichella擁有這片山丘地, 其他的酒廠大多在平坦的山谷間..." 看著他自信滿足且閃閃發光的表情, 我完全能理解那份對土地的熱愛! 我也才意識到, 原來前一晚在酒莊吃飯點來喝的那一杯, 正是來自這樣的園地... 漂亮到猶如葡萄園被灑上亮麗水彩色澤!
No doubt, Bulichella has a wide range of vineyard soils
This is the flat area where the ground covers with light brown sands and clays.When I looked back my photos, I hardly found grapes but loads soils. haha... I focused on the grounds more than the vines. They are just amazing! 這一片備受呵護的土地, 隨著地理位置改變區隔出多樣的土壤變化. 淡棕色帶有砂粘土的平緩園地上, 剛好有園工以機器翻土過後的痕跡...在Bulichella我拍土地的照片似乎明顯比葡萄串多! 他們每株葡萄樹上的葡萄串少之又少, 也是採取了嚴格管控產量, 以求高品質的種植原則.
When Mr. Miyakawa decided to invest in Bulichella, he bought new technology for winemaking. With the know how from vineyards then the cellar, Bulichella wine making teams show you the tastes of Suvereto year by year. I followed Ale to their cellar and he let me tried their core ranges of varieties in stainless tanks...i.e. Merlot 2010, Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 and Syrah 2012. Honestly, they make really high quality wines. Each grape variety has identical characteristics which I found not easy to judge what most satisfy my flavor of that day. If there must be only one sequence to narrow them down, for that particular tasting I would say Merlot then Syrah then Cabernet Sauvignon.
酒莊在出資的日本老闆Miyakawa加入後, 增添更新酒窖釀酒設備, 運用科技讓好的葡萄原料得以繼續發揮它的無限潛能. 我跟著Ale繞了一圈, 也嘗鮮了幾個還放在不鏽鋼槽中的Bulichella核心葡萄品種... 2010 Merlot, 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012 Syrah.. 每個品種的特色都很分明, 質優是Bulichella酒給我的第一印象! 雖然我個人比較偏愛卡本內或混調口味的酒, 但我卻頗喜歡他們果香與酸度酒體都恰到好處的梅洛.
Bulichella Cellar, with French barriques and stainless tanks aging.
酒莊在出資的日本老闆Miyakawa加入後, 增添更新酒窖釀酒設備, 運用科技讓好的葡萄原料得以繼續發揮它的無限潛能. 我跟著Ale繞了一圈, 也嘗鮮了幾個還放在不鏽鋼槽中的Bulichella核心葡萄品種... 2010 Merlot, 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012 Syrah.. 每個品種的特色都很分明, 質優是Bulichella酒給我的第一印象! 雖然我個人比較偏愛卡本內或混調口味的酒, 但我卻頗喜歡他們果香與酸度酒體都恰到好處的梅洛.
Bulichella Cellar, with French barriques and stainless tanks aging.
當我在葡萄園跟Ale聊時, 他提到了他曾經到過波爾多拉圖Latour去實習. 我想那些經驗, 加上新設備的引進, 讓他能夠與Bulichella釀酒團隊, 將酒的水準發揮極致, 不過, 當然這些需要時間來證明!
Bulichella cat, the most friendly cat I have ever met...
as it laid so close to me while I was taking some photos outside the wineshop. Its body leaned right onto my legs, haha.. funny cat! 這隻貓再次印證Bulichella是間相當有人情味的酒莊, 連貓都對陌生人很熱情! 因為... 當我在酒莊品飲室外等待Ale拿酒去餐廳品飲時候, 它就自動靠過來, 這樣賴在我的大腿旁, 一動也不動, 似乎要叫我摸摸它.. 我一挪動, 它還是一直跑來我大腿旁賴著不走!
as it laid so close to me while I was taking some photos outside the wineshop. Its body leaned right onto my legs, haha.. funny cat! 這隻貓再次印證Bulichella是間相當有人情味的酒莊, 連貓都對陌生人很熱情! 因為... 當我在酒莊品飲室外等待Ale拿酒去餐廳品飲時候, 它就自動靠過來, 這樣賴在我的大腿旁, 一動也不動, 似乎要叫我摸摸它.. 我一挪動, 它還是一直跑來我大腿旁賴著不走!
時間在參訪酒莊時轉動地似乎總是特別快, 逛完酒窖做完桶邊試飲後, Ale提議把酒拿去餐廳邊吃中餐邊試飲.他開著mini cooper進入Suvereto古城, 體貼的把兩小箱的Bulichella酒搬到餐廳, 我就在車上拍起這車門敞開, 駕駛座倒下來的隨興景象... 果真是個性情中人來著!
I was busy eating, drinking at the same time, so no tasting note!
My memory remained "good" haha... BUT I have some sincere suggestions
- buy a case each of their Coldipietrerosse and Hyde. and try them in differnent peroid of times because I bet these two bottles will develop very good with time goes by. It must be interesting to see how they change.. Coldipietrerosse is a Bodeaux beldning style of Toscana wine where as Hyde is 100% Syrah.
- must try Rubino as it is Survereto version of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blending. perhaps it is good to compare with the 100% Sangiovese Tuscanio Rosso.
- the identical Tuscanio Bianco made with 100% Vermentino has pleasant aromas such as apricot banana and flowers surely should give it a try too.
- not to miss the dessert wines of Bulichella. one is Sfiziale Aleatico and the other is a new project of white version sweet wine.
因為一整場午餐品飲, 我得拍照又得吃飯還得喝, 所以一整個沒能確實紀錄. 我的印象告訴我, 他們兩款已經得獎無數的頂級酒, 一款是以波爾多混調的Coldipietrerosse及100%Syrah釀成的Hyde, 是需要時間熟成的酒, 如果有機會, 應該要買個半打一箱的, 找不同時間觀賞陳年後的變化! 也就能看出那片紅岩地的堅強實力! Bulichella因為還是托斯卡尼酒, 不免要喝看看Suvereto地區的Sangiovese=Tuscanio Rosso. 也可以把它跟產區特色調和Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon品種的Rubino. 或許你能找出自己偏愛的味道. 而如果你喜歡帶有淡雅花香及蜜桃香的白酒, 不妨喝喝Tuscanio Bianco, 用Vermentino品種釀成的. 當然, Bulichella也有甜酒, 一款使用Aleatico釀成的甜紅酒Sfiziale, 最近Ale也研發了一款新的甜白酒, 甜而不膩的口感, 相信會成為受歡迎的酒, 不過這一款還沒出廠, 他隨手抓了一支開給我還有餐廳主廚試新品...
- must try Rubino as it is Survereto version of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blending. perhaps it is good to compare with the 100% Sangiovese Tuscanio Rosso.
- the identical Tuscanio Bianco made with 100% Vermentino has pleasant aromas such as apricot banana and flowers surely should give it a try too.
- not to miss the dessert wines of Bulichella. one is Sfiziale Aleatico and the other is a new project of white version sweet wine.
因為一整場午餐品飲, 我得拍照又得吃飯還得喝, 所以一整個沒能確實紀錄. 我的印象告訴我, 他們兩款已經得獎無數的頂級酒, 一款是以波爾多混調的Coldipietrerosse及100%Syrah釀成的Hyde, 是需要時間熟成的酒, 如果有機會, 應該要買個半打一箱的, 找不同時間觀賞陳年後的變化! 也就能看出那片紅岩地的堅強實力! Bulichella因為還是托斯卡尼酒, 不免要喝看看Suvereto地區的Sangiovese=Tuscanio Rosso. 也可以把它跟產區特色調和Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon品種的Rubino. 或許你能找出自己偏愛的味道. 而如果你喜歡帶有淡雅花香及蜜桃香的白酒, 不妨喝喝Tuscanio Bianco, 用Vermentino品種釀成的. 當然, Bulichella也有甜酒, 一款使用Aleatico釀成的甜紅酒Sfiziale, 最近Ale也研發了一款新的甜白酒, 甜而不膩的口感, 相信會成為受歡迎的酒, 不過這一款還沒出廠, 他隨手抓了一支開給我還有餐廳主廚試新品...
我相信, 若沒有實際走過這一趟旅程, 我想我永遠不會有機會真正瞭解並認識Bulichella. 如果你有機會, 一定要去體驗Bulichella !
全站熱搜
留言列表
各國葡萄酒 WINEs (7)
